Edinburgh will always have a special place in my heart because it is one of those rare cities that doesn’t feel like anywhere else in the world. Building spires surround you, tiny closes open up to incredible views, and you can spot the castle from countless angles perched on its volcanic rock like it has been keeping watch for centuries.
On our most recent visit, we had only two days in Edinburgh to explore, but that ended up being the perfect amount of time to explore my favorite bits. We wandered the Royal Mile, climbed up to Edinburgh Castle, and later found ourselves strolling along the peaceful Water of Leith after exploring the fairytale Dean Village.
That mix of famous sights balanced with tranquil corners is what makes this 2 days in Edinburgh itinerary so special. With just a little planning, you can see Edinburgh’s biggest highlights without rushing, while still finding the peaceful and unexpected moments that make this city unforgettable.
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Know Before You Go: Edinburgh
✈️ Closest airport: Edinburgh Airport (EDI)
🛎️ Where to stay: My top pick is the Radisson Blu Edinburgh City Centre. It sits right on the Royal Mile and is just a short walk from everything on this itinerary.
🚆 Train travel: If you’re coming from London or elsewhere in the UK, book your journey with Omio to compare routes and find the best ticket prices.
🚘 Car rentals: If you’re continuing your adventure beyond Edinburgh, use Discover Cars to compare UK rental car prices and find an easy pick-up location.
🔌 Electronics: Make sure you can use your electronics with a universal travel adaptor.
📱 Phone data: Check maps, send messages and utilize your phone apps without surprise charges with an Airalo e-sim.
Why Visit Edinburgh
On my last visit, I loved how quickly a wander in Edinburgh shifted from lively to tranquil. One moment I was weaving through the crowds on the Royal Mile, and a short walk later I was standing in a quiet corner of Dean Village beside the Water of Leith. That contrast is what makes Edinburgh so special, and why two days here is enough to experience both its iconic highlights and its peaceful corners without feeling rushed.
With that said, lovers of Scotland can easily extend time here without getting bored. Edinburgh also is a great base for Scottish day trips out to explore the Highlands and nearby historic sights.
Visiting Edinburgh by Season
The seasons have a big impact on your visit to Edinburgh, but every season brings something unique. The year starts quiet and dark, but January and February are a great time to explore without crowds. Spring is lovely as local gardens and hillsides begin to sprout greenery and flowers. Once the clocks shift in late March, you’ll have a significant increase in daylight for exploring.
Summer is bright and lively in Edinburgh. You can expect long days with late sunsets, and August sees the city taken over by performing artists with the annual arrival of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.
Autumn is my favorite season in Edinburgh. Falling leaves and grey skies fit in perfectly with Edinburgh’s gothic aesthetic. Late November and December in Edinburgh kick the party back up as the very early sunsets are offset by Christmas and Hogmanay festivities.
Edinburgh Itinerary Day 1
This first day focuses on Edinburgh’s Old Town and the city’s most iconic sights.
Walk the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is the spine of Edinburgh’s Old Town, stretching from the castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This walk can feel almost like an elaborate movie set where the people you pass by seem strangely out of place in modern clothes and chatting on cell phones.
On my last visit, this was the moment I remembered why Edinburgh feels so different from other European cities. The mix of stone buildings, narrow closes, and sudden bursts of skyline views doesn’t really look like anywhere else.
Take your time as you wander. Pop into the closes that catch your eye, browse the small shops, and stop to admire St Giles Cathedral if you haven’t been inside before. You don’t need to rush. Most of today’s highlights are within a short walk of each other.
Visit Edinburgh Castle
No matter how many photos you’ve seen, Edinburgh Castle is even more impressive in person. It’s perched on an ancient volcanic rock and dominates the entire city, so walking up the esplanade feels pretty dramatic.
It’s well worth going inside. Some of my favorite highlights are:
- St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. Don’t miss the small but beautiful stained glass windows.
- Panoramic rampart views stretching out toward the Firth of Forth. The view from here is worth the price of admission on its own in my opinion.
- Barracks and military exhibits that bring centuries of history to life. Seeing the recreation of how soldiers lived here in the past was fascinating.
Crowds can build quickly, especially in peak months, so I recommend booking a morning entrance time. For a more in-depth visit, consider entering with an expert guide so you don’t miss anything.
Lunch Near Grassmarket
After your castle visit, head down through the winding alleys toward Grassmarket. This area sits just below the castle, so you’ll get a great view looking back up at the fortress. It’s a lovely place to wander and has plenty of pubs, cafés, and restaurants to choose from, though I went a bit away from here to get my potato fix at Makars Mash Bar. Highly recommend the detour if you’re a fellow mash lover.
If you’re in the mood for something sweet after lunch, Mary’s Milk Bar is a classic choice for delicious gelato.
Princes Street Gardens and Iconic Castle Views
From Grassmarket, you can continue toward Princes Street Gardens, one of the best green spaces in central Edinburgh. This is where you’ll be able to take incredible photos of Edinburgh Castle as it looms high above the gardens in a way you won’t see from anywhere else in the city.
Take a few minutes to sit, rest your legs, and enjoy the scenery. If you have extra time or rain clouds threaten your park visit, the National Galleries of Scotland are nearby and free to enter.
Evening Plans
Depending on your energy, here are a few different evening options:
Evening Option 1: Ghost Stories Walking Tour
If you’re up for more exploring on foot, then I recommend joining a walking tour to uncover Old Town’s secrets and ghost stories. From witches to serial killers, these cobbled streets and narrow closes hide many secrets.
Evening Option 2: Whisky Tasting and Scottish Storytelling
If you’re done walking, but also fancy a sit down with something delicious, then I recommend an evening spent whisky tasting. Combine it with Scottish storytelling, and you have one unforgettable evening. (Note: this one is not suitable for children).
Evening Option 3: Relaxing Dinner
If you’re just ready for a lovely meal before bed, then allow me to direct you to one of my favorite Edinburgh restaurants. Howies on Victoria Street serves incredible local dishes in a cozy townhouse that makes you want to linger. Reservations recommended.
Whichever option you choose, know that after a full day of walking hills and cobblestones, you’ll sleep well tonight.
Edinburgh Itinerary Day 2
Today we are going to venture out of the Old Town into the new(er) section of Edinburgh. Don’t worry, we are still seeing plenty of history. This will just be a bit more recent than the medieval Old Town area.
Start Your Morning with a Walk Toward Dean Village
Begin your second day with a leisurely walk toward Dean Village, one of Edinburgh’s prettiest areas. The walk from the city center takes you past elegant Georgian streets before dipping down into the valley of the Water of Leith.
If you have time, stop for a coffee to sip on the way. The Milkman on Cockburn Street is a delicious and popular local choice near the Royal Mile.
Dean Village
Dean Village looks like a small storybook village tucked right into the heart of Edinburgh. Stone houses, old mill buildings, and the gentle curve of the river create an almost impossibly picturesque scene.
But because it’s so photogenic, it’s also popular. When I visited, I found it absolutely lovely but also full of enthusiastic Instagram photographers trying to get the perfect shot. If you arrive and find it busy, don’t worry. Dean Village is only our starting point.
Plan to spend 15-20 minutes wandering the village, longer if you want to wait for a perfect bridge over the water photo.
Travel Tip: If you want Dean Village to yourself, arrive first thing in the morning. The light is beautiful and the pathways are quieter.
Walk the Water of Leith
Walk just a few minutes along the Water of Leith Walkway, and the crowds thin quickly. You’ll hear the river, see mossy stone walls, and get a chance to imagine life along this quiet residential stretch of Edinburgh that many visitors never experience.
You don’t need to commit to a long hike. Even a short stretch of the Water of Leith adds a peaceful contrast to the busier parts of the city. I recommend heading east along the waterway toward Stockbridge under the arches of Dean Bridge. Continue at least until you pass St. Bernard’s Well, a landmark that looks a bit like a Roman temple dropped into Scotland.
Explore New Town
After your riverside walk, head up into New Town, Edinburgh’s elegant Georgian district. The wide streets, pale stone facades, and open squares feel like a complete change from Old Town’s medieval twists.
This is a great area for window shopping, admiring the Georgian architecture, or having a relaxed lunch.
Stockbridge, just a bit further along, offers independent shops and cafés if you want to explore more deeply.
Visit Topping & Company Booksellers
Before leaving New Town, make time for Topping & Company Booksellers. This is one of my favorite stops in the city. The tall bookshelves, rolling ladders, and warm lighting make it a dream for book lovers. It’s also a peaceful break from the city’s busier streets, especially on a rainy afternoon.
Plan for 20–30 minutes if you’re browsing quickly, longer if you’re the type who disappears into a bookshop never to be seen again.
Lunch in New Town or Stockbridge
There are plenty of good options in both areas, so choose a spot nearby depending on what you’re in the mood for and whether you want to only visit New Town or also check out the shops in Stockbridge. I really like New Town Fox near Queens Gardens. It is a lovely casual cafe that fits nicely along your path from the Water of Leith to Topping & Co.
Afternoon at the Palace of Holyroodhouse
If your shopping hasn’t taken up the afternoon, head back toward the eastern end of the Royal Mile to visit the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This is the official royal residence in Edinburgh, but it feels surprisingly approachable once you step inside. The palace is full of beautifully preserved rooms, quiet corridors, and centuries of royal drama. The chambers of Mary, Queen of Scots, are a particular highlight.
The audio guide does a great job of bringing the history to life, and the ruined Holyrood Abbey just outside is hauntingly atmospheric. If the weather is decent, take a few extra minutes to wander the palace gardens before you leave.
How to get there: From New Town, walk back toward the Royal Mile and follow it all the way down to the palace entrance. It’s roughly a 20–25 minute walk depending on your pace, and mostly downhill.
Plan for 1.5–2 hours to explore the palace, abbey, and grounds at a comfortable pace.
Second Evening in Edinburgh
For your final evening, head back toward Old Town or over to Stockbridge for dinner. On our short trip, we visited The Scran & Scallie gastropub for a dinner I’m still dreaming about.
After dinner, consider taking one last walk along the Royal Mile or returning to Princes Street Gardens to see the castle lit up after dark. It’s a memorable way to end your two days in the city.
Things To Do in Edinburgh When It Rains
Edinburgh’s weather has a mind of its own, so it’s good to have a few indoor ideas ready. Luckily, the city is packed with cozy places that feel even better when it’s drizzly outside. Here are a few great options:
The Scotch Whisky Experience
If you want to make your indoor time educational and a little boozy, head to the Scotch Whisky Experience near Edinburgh Castle. This journey in Scotch history includes an indoor tasting for adults and a fun introduction to Scotland’s national drink. Children are allowed on some tours.
National Museum of Scotland
The National Museum of Scotland is one of my favorite indoor stops in Edinburgh. This huge museum covers everything from Scottish history to science and natural wonders. It’s free, family-friendly, and easy to spend a couple of hours wandering inside without worrying about the forecast.
St. Giles Cathedral
Right on the Royal Mile, St. Giles is the perfect place to duck into when you need to wait out a passing storm. The vaulted ceilings, stained glass, and quiet atmosphere make it a lovely break from the crowds and the rain. Plan for 20–30 minutes inside.
Scottish National Gallery
Just off Princes Street Gardens, the Scottish National Gallery offers an impressive collection of European and Scottish art. It’s free to enter and one of the easiest indoor stops to add to your day if rain interrupts your outdoor plans.
Best Views in Edinburgh
Edinburgh rewards anyone willing to climb a little with some incredible viewpoints. Here are two of the best places to soak in the skyline. When visiting either, I recommend bracing for windy conditions, as that seems to be the norm for all of Scotland’s hillsides.
Arthur’s Seat
This is the most famous viewpoint in Edinburgh, but it’s worth the hype. This ancient volcanic hill gives you panoramic views across the whole city and out toward the Firth of Forth. This one is a hike, so I recommend making sure you have plenty of sunshine hours left in your day before setting out.
How to get there: Start from Holyrood Park at the base of Arthur’s Seat (near the Palace of Holyroodhouse). Follow the well-marked path upward; plan for 1.5–2 hours round-trip.
Calton Hill
If you want sweeping city views without the hike, Calton Hill is a perfect choice. The top offers postcard-worthy scenery of the castle, Old Town, New Town, and the North Sea beyond.
How to get there: From Princes Street, look for the steps on Waterloo Place. It’s a short 5–10 minute climb to the top.
What To Pack for 2 Days in Edinburgh
Edinburgh’s weather changes quickly, even in summer, so packing layers is the smartest approach. Comfortable shoes are also essential since you’ll be walking up steep hills and uneven cobblestones. A lightweight waterproof jacket is useful year-round, and a warm layer will come in handy during cooler evenings.
If you’re visiting outside of summer, expect chilly winds and occasional rain. My seasonal guides page includes detailed packing lists with a full breakdown of what to bring no matter what time of the year you choose to visit.
How To Get to Edinburgh
Arriving by Train
If you’re already in the UK, arriving in Edinburgh by train is one of the easiest and most scenic ways to start your trip. The train from London to Edinburgh is one of my favorite ways to make the journey a memorable part of your visit. You can also add a stop in York for another gorgeous UK city worth your time.
Trains arrive directly into Edinburgh Waverley Station, which sits right in the middle of the city. From here, most hotels in Old Town are walkable, and taxis are readily available if you’re staying further out.
Travel Tip: Book your train tickets early on Omio for the best prices and the widest choice of departure times. Click here to check timetables for your travel.
Arriving by Air
Edinburgh Airport (EDI) is about 25–35 minutes from the city. You can reach the center by:
- Tram: A straightforward option that runs frequently and stops at St. Andrew Square.
- Taxi: Convenient for groups or rainy arrivals, with typical fares between £25–£35.
- Bus: The Airlink 100 is the most budget-friendly and makes several stops between the airport and Waverley Bridge.
Where To Stay in Edinburgh
My top recommendation for a short stay is the Radisson Blu Edinburgh City Centre, located right on the Royal Mile. It’s a comfortable, central hotel that’s especially convenient if you’re arriving by train and want to minimize walking with luggage.
If you prefer something different, here are a few excellent alternatives:
Best for Romance: The Witchery by the Castle
Booking the Witchery by the Castle guarantees a dramatic and atmospheric stay just steps from Edinburgh Castle. If your stay in Edinburgh is for a special occasion with someone you love, it doesn’t get more beautiful than this.
Best for Families: Royal Mile 2-Bedroom Apartment
We stayed in this fantastic 2-bedroom apartment right on the Royal Mile on our first trip to Edinburgh and couldn’t fault it for space right in the heart of Old Town. It’s ideal for families who need room to spread out.
Best for Budget: YOTEL Edinburgh
YOTEL Edinburgh is modern, clean, and well-located within walking distance of the major sights without the high price tag of many Old Town hotels.
See The Best of Edinburgh Without Rushing
Even with just two days, you can experience Edinburgh’s grand highlights while still finding quiet corners that feel worlds apart from the busy Royal Mile. The dramatic castle views, peaceful riverside paths, and bookshops you could lose a whole afternoon in are a perfect taste of what makes Edinburgh so unforgettable.
