Edinburgh is a beautiful place unlike any other city in the world. Its charm really comes into focus in the Winter months when the gothic architecture and dramatic landscape slip into something both cozy and foreboding.
Edinburgh in December means short days, but nights that are lit up with Christmas lights and cheered with mulled wine. Visiting early in December means fewer crowds as you enjoy the city. Visiting at the end of December brings world-famous Hogmanay celebrations. In short, December is a perfect time to explore Edinburgh.
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What To Expect From Edinburgh in December
Shorter Days Increase the Gothic Atmosphere
It gets dark early. Edinburgh is located in the north of the United Kingdom and gets only a little over 7 hours of sunlight in December. You should expect the sun to be set by 4pm.
Luckily, after dark looks great on Edinburgh. This town is full to bursting with gothic architecture, ghost stories, and cozy book nooks. There is no need to end your day at sunset here.
Winter Weather Is the Norm
The overall daily average temperature in Edinburgh in December is between 6-8°C (42-46°F). Rain is also fairly common this time of year, with snow being a possibility.
Be sure to pack sensible shoes that won’t slide on slick cobblestones and plenty of warm layers.
Seasonal Festivities Bring Back the Light
While it may be cold and dark outside, Edinburgh lights up like a winter wonderland in December. Edinburgh is a great spot for Christmas shopping, Christmas activities, and endless ways to celebrate the holiday season all the way up through Hogmanay.
How To Get to Edinburgh City Centre From Edinburgh Airport
While a major UK flight hub, the Edinburgh airport has only one terminal and is not difficult to get around. You can reach Edinburgh from the airport easily by taxi, bus or tram.
Travel time is similar for all options (25-35 minutes), so look at where your accommodation is located to pick your best option. I prefer the tram if my destination is near the train station. A taxi works well for groups up to 5 splitting the fare. It’s also handy for keeping dry if you arrive during a rain shower.
Edinburgh via Taxi or Private Car Service
Taxis pick up in the East Terminus just across from the main terminal. You can also pre-book a taxi or car service. These will typically either arrange to have the driver meet you in terminal or pick you up from the ground floor of the car park.
Taxi pricing is metered but should run between £25-£35 for up to 5 passengers. Private transfer service is usually £45+, but I wouldn’t bother splashing out a lot more for this service.
Edinburgh via Tram
Trams from the airport are easy and fast. The airport tram stop is right outside the main terminal and you can buy tickets from the vending machines at any tram stop.
Adult tickets for a trip into the city and back to the airport on your departure run £9. A family of 2 adults and up to 3 children can book the same return for one price of £22.50. Check the Edinburgh Trams website for more details and fare updates.
Edinburgh via Bus
The Airlink 100 bus is your cheapest option, running just £7.50 per adult or £18 for a family for return tickets between the airport and Edinburgh City Centre.
How To Get to Edinburgh City Centre From Edinburgh Waverley Train Station
If you’re already in the UK, then arriving in Edinburgh by train is a great way to go. When you factor in travel to/from airports and security time, trains from London can be about the same time investment and much less stressful. The train ride from London also features a nice run along Scottish coastline during the journey.
Arriving in Edinburgh by train also means that you’re already in Edinburgh City Centre when you arrive. You can walk to most accommodation spots from here, or pick up a convenient taxi just outside the station if you’re headed further out.
Getting Around Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a very walkable city and the winding alleys are most friendly to foot traffic. However, Edinburgh has very steep hills, so walking can become a challenge if you don’t arrive in shape to manage it.
Lothian Buses run the bus service in Edinburgh. Buses are most convenient outside of rush hour times when central roads become gridlocked. Apple and Google Maps are reliable here for estimating journey times by bus versus on foot.
Trams are more efficient than buses, but the current line doesn’t reach a lot of places.
Taxis are also a good option if your legs are tired or you’re venturing further out. Black cabs can be hailed on the street if their light is on, or you can download an app for one of the major cab companies to make booking and paying a breeze.
Where To Stay in Edinburgh
Here are 5 of the best places to stay to be near the seasonal action in Edinburgh in December:
Luxury and Harry Potter Vibes
The Balmoral famously hosted J.K. Rowling while she finished the final Harry Potter book. This is a true 5-star hotel and puts up lovely holiday displays.
Close To Edinburgh Waverley
It doesn’t get much closer than The Scotsman Hotel. This lovely hotel was built in 1905 and was one of the first buildings I saw when I stepped out of the train station.
Great For Families
Don’t overlook apartment rentals if you need a bit of space to preserve family peace. We stayed in this lovely apartment located right on the Royal Mile during our last December visit and found the location perfect for our daily wanderings.
Atmosphere Galore
Located a stone’s throw from Edinburgh Castle on the Royal Mile, The Witchery by the Castle will feed all of your dark princess fantasies. Rooms here are unique and lavish. If you can’t stomach the prices to stay here, consider splashing out for a meal at the on-site restaurant instead.
Good Location for Less
YOTEL Edinburgh is in a great location very close to the Edinburgh Christmas Markets main area. Standard hotel rooms and family room options.
10 Reasons To Visit Edinburgh in December
Now you know how to get to Edinburgh, and how to get around once you’re here. But what can you look forward to when visiting Edinburgh in December?
1. Edinburgh Christmas Markets
Edinburgh’s Christmas Markets and Festivals are a delight! Expect beautiful lights, festive food and drinks, and plenty of craft stands to find that perfect Edinburgh souvenir. Make sure to pick up some mulled wine to warm you up while you stroll.
The Christmas Market in East Princes Street Gardens is the easiest to spot thanks to its location just down the hill from the Royal Mile. You can also find fun for kids at Santa Land, including the all-important visit with Santa at Santa’s Grotto.
Outdoor ice skating is frequently part of the festivities. Look for a rink in St Andrew Square.
You’ll find lights and festive decorations all over the city brightening up the night. George Street in particular goes all out, and don’t miss booking in for dinner or cocktails at The Dome if you want to add a touch of fancy to your festivities.
2. Edinburgh Castle
You can’t miss seeing Edinburgh Castle as it dominates the city skyline. This view is one of the reasons Edinburgh is such a unique and beautiful place to visit.
While it’s lovely just to see Edinburgh Castle, it is absolutely worth visiting inside to learn about the centuries of history preserved here. Highlights include Edinburgh’s oldest building (St. Margaret’s Chapel), military garrisons showing what soldier life was like here, and royal icons including the Stone of Destiny.
Visiting in December means lower crowd levels than you’d find in the popular summer months. When I visited in December 2021, I found myself the only person in the same room of the old hospital wing. I did scoot along in search of others when I remembered the many ghost stories here!
Skip the line and visit with a guide on this tour.
At such a high point in the city, it’s unsurprising that you can find excellent views from here out over Edinburgh. Even in December, it’s possible to see quite far.
3. Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is beautiful in any season and an area where you are likely to spend a lot of time. The Royal Mile extends from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. Along its length are numerous attractions, including several museums and shops.
One of the perks of visiting Edinburgh in December is that you’ll have a reason to wear that beautiful new wool scarf you found in a Royal Mile shop.
4. Palace of Holyroodhouse
At the far end of the Royal Mile from Edinburgh Castle, you’ll find the Palace of Holyroodhouse. This remains the Queen’s official residence in Edinburgh but is also open for tours. Closures can sometimes happen at short notice due to it being a working royal palace, but this is less likely in December when the Queen is more often down south.
Aside from its current royal connections, the Palace of Holyroodhouse has connections to many historic royals including Mary, Queen of Scots, and Bonnie Prince Charlie. You can visit Mary, Queen of Scots’ chambers during your visit in the oldest section of the palace.
Note that the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays.
5. Walking Tours
Edinburgh deserves to be explored on foot, and one of the best ways to do this is to book in on a walking tour.
Whether you want to learn more about the city’s history, hear ghostly tales, jam out in a silent disco, or visit Harry Potter inspiration points, a walking tour has you covered. Edinburgh is jam-packed with things to see and it’s easy to miss things wandering on your own. A good guide can make sure you find the best bits and may surprise you with secrets hiding in plain sight.
A few great tours to try in December:
Harry Potter Magical Guided Walking Tour
Real Mary King’s Close Guided Tour
Dark Secrets of the Old Town Ghost Walking Tour
Walking tours go forward in all sorts of weather, which you should expect in December. Don’t let rain or cold keep you in. Put on your coat and hat and grab an umbrella. It’s time to explore!
6. Whisky
When you need a December warm up after exploring, a little whisky goes a long way. The Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile gives a great introduction to this famous elixir, and plenty of opportunities to have a taste. Tours include tastings and at least one tour is suitable for children.
7. National Museum of Scotland
When the weather looks dreadful or you just want to be wowed in a fantastic museum, don’t miss a visit to the National Museum of Scotland. Like many of the museums in Edinburgh, this one is free to enter and can please everyone. Interactive exhibits are great for kids, and there is a wealth of exhibits covering science, history, art and more!
8. Theatre and Pantomime
December is a great month for taking in a show in Edinburgh. Pantomime is a tradition for many Scottish families and can be great fun. Expect a lot of silliness and audience participation.
If more traditional theatre is more your thing, you can find plenty of festive-themed musicals and ballet at Edinburgh theatres.
9. Bookshops
Edinburgh has plenty of cozy bookshops perfect for finding your next good read. Topping & Company is a favorite with their large windows and library ladders adding to the aesthetic. This is also a cozy place to stop in for a coffee or tea on a rainy afternoon. On my last December visit an employee was even passing out mince pies to visitors.
If secondhand books are more your thing, then Armchair Books should be your destination. This shop is exactly what you want your secondhand book shop to be, stuffed to the brim with books that even the store website describes as “very nearly alphabetised chaos”.
10. Hogmanay
You’ll find plenty of crowds at the end of December in Edinburgh as the city gets ready for one of the world’s biggest New Year’s celebrations. Hogmanay, Scottish for last day of the year, is actually a 3-day festival involving street parties, concerts and a torchlight procession. Covid caused this event to be canceled in 2020 and 2021, so expect things to be big once it comes back.
If you stick around to January 1st in Edinburgh, you can watch or participate in the Loony Dook. This event sees the brave and the crazy taking a chilly dunk in the Firth of Forth. Many people dress up in costume for the occasion.
Should You Visit Edinburgh in December?
If you visit before Christmas, then you can benefit from fewer crowds compared to summer. After Christmas you’ll find big crowds but big fun as Edinburgh’s Hogmanay celebrations kick in.
Don’t let fear of dreary weather keep you away from Edinburgh in December. This city shines in winter and was truly meant to be seen in this dark and gothic season. Edinburgh is also packed with festive spirit in December and should definitely be on your list for a winter visit!
Where Next?
Looking for more UK travel ideas? Check out these guides!
